Some will insulate between the joists with fiberglass and then seal the entire underside with rigid foam. You should try to get in a minimum of R-30. If the heat loss downward is entirely wasted to a crawl space, for example, then your insulation method should be extensive. Most people don’t mind if they lose a little bit of heat downward in this scenario. If there is an unheated basement below then you should use R-19. The type of insulation doesn’t really matter all that much. If not, you can probably get away with R-13 but R-19 is better. If there is carpeting or a high heat loss area above then you should put in R-19. The amount of insulation is dependent on what is above and below. If you can only do this once because the ceiling will be finished then the answer is absolutely yes. Many people ask us if it’s necessary to also install insulation below the radiant tubing, heat transfer plates, and reflective barrier. We still feel it’s an important piece and since it’s relatively inexpensive, it should be installed. Some will argue that the reflective barrier isn’t necessary and that it will become covered up with dust and lose its effectiveness over the years. We are also trying to create a small dead air pocket that further helps to equalize the heat transfer. The purpose of the reflective barrier installation is to reflect the radiant heat waves back up towards the sub-floor. We have an installation video that shows how to do this. The reflective barrier comes on a roll that is 50″ wide and must be cut so that it can fit between the joists. It has fibers that run through it so it doesn’t rip or tear but it can be cut with a pair of scissors. Install Aluminum Reflective BarrierĪbout 1-2″ below the radiant tubing and plates, you should install an aluminum reflective barrier. This is nothing more than a craft paper with an aluminum facing. To learn more about the benefits of the aluminum fins, please visit heat_transfer_plates.php 3. You’ll be less likely to feel warm and cold spots. Finally, the aluminum plates allow for more even and equal heating across the floor surface. Installing the plates will also allow the floor to warm up quicker which again will equate to lower operational costs. Lower water temps=lower operational cost. They will allow you to run cooler water temps through the radiant tubing. The installation of aluminum plates is CRITICAL. We have nearly 40 years of experience in this business. If people tell you this they are trying to sell you a system simply on price and don’t care how well it works or how efficient it is. Others say they’re too difficult to install. Many debate the merit of installing plates. Install Aluminum Heat Emission Fins (aluminum plates) See instructions on how to plan and execute your tubing layout lower in this document. Install Pex Tubing between the floor joists. Again it is our opinion that the following four critical steps must be taken for a staple-up installation to work effectively. In our opinion, a staple-up radiant heating system must be installed correctly in order to be efficient and effective. This application works well in new construction and is also a very popular retrofit option. As long as you can see the floor joists from below then you can add radiant heat. This is also known as the “staple-up radiant heating” application. Installing radiant heat between the floor joists is a very effective way to get heat into any space.
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